Video: How To Choose A Belay Device For Rock Climbing
In this video, Reuben from Next Adventure discusses how to choose a belay device that is right for you and your style of climbing. He clearly shows the differing styles of belay devices while highlighting their primary features and uses in rock climbing.
How to choose the belay device that's right for you.
Belay devices are necessary for all styles of rock climbing, but the type of belay device that you need is going to differ depending on where you're climbing and the type of climbing that you're doing, be it in the gym, outdoors, or multi-pitch.
Belay devices can basically be broken down into three major categories.
A standard tuber device which has one or two holes for the rope to run through, an assisted locking tuber which has an integrated mechanism to create friction on the rope and assist in the breaking, and a fully assisted locking device that's going to have some variation of moving cam, that's friction based, and will help lock up the rope.
Standard Tuber
A standard tuber device is going to be something like your basic ATC from Black Diamond or the Wild Country Pro Light. These devices are typically going to have two holes, although you'll only use one when belaying a lead climber on top rope. The second hole is utilized while rappelling. They do a great job assisting by adding friction into the system that allows you to safely catch and lower your climber. These are generally the most affordable belay devices and start at around $18.00.
One step up, in this same category, are devices that can be configured for guide mode. This includes belay devices like the ATC Guide and the Petzl Reverso 4. These devices are going to have an extra loop on either side so that you can hang the device from the wall and belay in guide mode. These are utilized during multi-pitch climbs. If you're going to be rappelling you'll want a device that has two tubes, one for either strand of the rope so that you can rappel safely.
Assisted Locking Tuber
This style of belay device works on the same friction principles as the standard tuber but incorporates some form of assisted locking feature. These include the Mammut Smart, the Edelrid Jul 2, and the Edelrid Megajul. The shape of these devices is designed in such a way that when placed under weight they lock the rope and can then released by tilting the device upwards. These are often lightweight and relatively inexpensive.
Auto-Locking Belay Device
The last style is the auto-locking belay device. A good example of this is the GRIGRI from Petzl. This is a fully assisted auto-locking belay device with a moving cam. When the GRIGRI is weighted, friction locks up the cam and pinches the brake strand of the rope. Even though it seems like the device might be holding the entire weight of the climber it is still important that you always have your hand on the brake strand of the rope when belaying.
There are a multitude of belay devices on the market. Each one has different features and is made of different materials. Some have small ridges that add friction into the system. Some orient themselves differently on the wall. It's important to choose the one that you think will work the best for you.
If you have any questions, check us out online at www.nextadventure.net or swing by the climbing department at our store and talk to a staff member about which belay device might be right for you.
