Trip Report: Rock Climbing Acadia National Park
Don’t tell my professors, but it wasn’t school I was most excited about when I moved to Maine. It wasn’t new friends, it wasn’t being away from home. The thing I was most excited for, was granite. Oregon, as beautiful (and superior to Maine) as it is, is unfortunately deprived of granite. New England is not, and Acadia boasts absolutely stunning trad climbing opportunities on prime granite.
Acadia National Park is one of Maine’s premier spots, not just for climbing. The October foliage is mind-blowing, the views are stunning, and the hikes are plentiful. Even if you aren’t a climber, it’s worth a stop.
I and two friends took a trip up to Acadia over our fall break. We had a four-day weekend to climb as much as we could and were able to explore three awesome spots in the park.
The Precipice
The Precipice was so good we went there three times in four days. The approach is easy (assuming you read the guidebook and take the right trail—we did not and spent 45 minutes bushwhacking before realizing our mistake and finding the correct approach, which takes 5-7 minutes).
I led the first route we did there, the uber-classic Old Town (5.7). Old Town is a beautiful finger crack in a dihedral with bomber gear. You wish the crack never ended it’s so good. Next to it is London Bridges (5.8), a fun but weird route that ascends a large detached crack using a mix of off-width and layback technique. One of my partners led this one, and I’m glad she did—the moves, while fun, felt awkward to me.
On our second day at The Precipice, we climbed Green Mt. Breakdown (5.9+). I started up a wet, slabby 5.7 corner before cutting to the right up a headwall of scary loose blocks (I felt like all my pro would’ve pulled them out though, in reality, I doubt it). The crux of the route is the second pitch, which I thankfully passed off to one of my friends. After climbing a thin finger crack in the corner of a ramp, the route requires trusting a high smeared foot to gain a roof, leading to runout face climbing (5.7).
Canada Cliff
Canada Cliff is one of the less-popular spots in Acadia. It doesn’t have the same views or proximity to the ocean that the Precipice offers, and the rock quality isn’t as good. However, Stonecutter’s Bible (5.7) is a pretty fun lead, and we spent some time toproping the crimpy 12b next door.
Russian Revolution, a 5.9 handcrack, was fun but not anything special (I prefer Dastardly Crack for you Oregonians): decent rock quality, good pro, a little wet and dirty.
Otter Cliffs
Otter is a dream. Make sure you’re there at low tide or thereabouts because otherwise, you’ll end up with wet ropes. You’ll rap into every route, stepping over the edge to find picturesque ocean-side climbing. The routes here range from sporty-feeling rooves to super fun, challenging layback finger crack.
My friends and I also snagged what I believe is the FNSA (First Naked Simul Ascent) on a super fun chimney. Otter certainly gives off slightly chiller vibes than some other places and is a great place to bring new climbers who are just going to be toproping and aren’t looking to tick classic trad lines.
Acadia has an impressive amount of climbing to offer, and most of it is super accessible. There’s a solid range in grades and overall great quality rock. Pair that with the incredible scenery and you’ve got yourself a prime spot.
I led the first route we did there, the uber-classic Old Town (5.7). Old Town is a beautiful finger crack in a dihedral with bomber gear. You wish the crack never ended it’s so good. Next to it is London Bridges (5.8), a fun but weird route that ascends a large detached crack using a mix of off-width and layback technique. One of my partners led this one, and I’m glad she did—the moves, while fun, felt awkward to me.
On our second day at The Precipice, we climbed Green Mt. Breakdown (5.9+). I started up a wet, slabby 5.7 corner before cutting to the right up a headwall of scary loose blocks (I felt like all my pro would’ve pulled them out though, in reality, I doubt it). The crux of the route is the second pitch, which I thankfully passed off to one of my friends. After climbing a thin finger crack in the corner of a ramp, the route requires trusting a high smeared foot to gain a roof, leading to runout face climbing (5.7).
Canada Cliff
Canada Cliff is one of the less-popular spots in Acadia. It doesn’t have the same views or proximity to the ocean that the Precipice offers, and the rock quality isn’t as good. However, Stonecutter’s Bible (5.7) is a pretty fun lead, and we spent some time toproping the crimpy 12b next door.
Russian Revolution, a 5.9 handcrack, was fun but not anything special (I prefer Dastardly Crack for you Oregonians): decent rock quality, good pro, a little wet and dirty.
Otter Cliffs
Otter is a dream. Make sure you’re there at low tide or thereabouts because otherwise, you’ll end up with wet ropes. You’ll rap into every route, stepping over the edge to find picturesque ocean-side climbing. The routes here range from sporty-feeling rooves to super fun, challenging layback finger crack.
My friends and I also snagged what I believe is the FNSA (First Naked Simul Ascent) on a super fun chimney. Otter certainly gives off slightly chiller vibes than some other places and is a great place to bring new climbers who are just going to be toproping and aren’t looking to tick classic trad lines.
Acadia has an impressive amount of climbing to offer, and most of it is super accessible. There’s a solid range in grades and overall great quality rock. Pair that with the incredible scenery and you’ve got yourself a prime spot.