Gear Review: Scarpa Origin Climbing Shoes
Value Rating: 10
Durability Rating: 9
Overall Rating: 9
Product Name: Origin
Product Brand: Scarpa
Best Use: Gym Climbing
Specs/sizes available: 34 – 47(half sizes)
Upper: 1.8mm Suede
Midsole: Flexan 1.9mm
Sole: SCARPA Vision rubber; 5mm
Last: FF
Weight: 225g; 7.9oz (1/2 pair size 38)
SHOP CLIMBING SHOES
The Full Review
The Scarpa Origins were the first pair of climbing shoes that I purchased as a beginning climber. My original attraction to this shoe was the price compared to other shoes on the market, especially since at the time I didn't know much about climbing shoe performance or if climbing would be much more than an occasional hobby.
As I started to climb more, these shoes continued to perform well and give me confidence on the wall. Since these are a very neutral shoe with little to no downturn, they are very comfortable to wear throughout you session. The two velcro straps are also convenient when you want to take them off and slip them back on when your feet do need a break.
The durability of these shoes also proved strong. After I started climbing, I ended up going to the gym about four to five times a week, and especially starting out my footwork was not the best. Even with heavy use, the rubber stayed strong, I never got any holes, tears or other malfunctions, and they just got more comfortable as I broke them into my foot.
The Good:
As mentioned above, the price of this shoe for someone just getting into rock climbing is phenomenal. This shoe is going to provide performance and comfort to anyone wanting to learn, and also for those looking for a shoe they don't have to constantly take off during a session.
The Bad:
As I started progressing more with bouldering, I needed a slightly more aggressive shoe that would help with toe hooks, heel hooks, and other types of footwork that can be intensive while bouldering. While the neutral design of these shoes is great for all day comfort, I eventually needed something that provided a little more performance.
The Bottom Line:
For anyone that is looking for their first pair of climbing shoes, I would point them in this direction every time. They are a shoe that provides you with all of the tools you need to improve your climbing, and they aren't going to smash your feet while doing it. Depending on how much you climb, these shoes could last you years as well, preventing you from having to keep investing more money and allowing you to keep climbing.
As I started to climb more, these shoes continued to perform well and give me confidence on the wall. Since these are a very neutral shoe with little to no downturn, they are very comfortable to wear throughout you session. The two velcro straps are also convenient when you want to take them off and slip them back on when your feet do need a break.
The durability of these shoes also proved strong. After I started climbing, I ended up going to the gym about four to five times a week, and especially starting out my footwork was not the best. Even with heavy use, the rubber stayed strong, I never got any holes, tears or other malfunctions, and they just got more comfortable as I broke them into my foot.
The Good:
As mentioned above, the price of this shoe for someone just getting into rock climbing is phenomenal. This shoe is going to provide performance and comfort to anyone wanting to learn, and also for those looking for a shoe they don't have to constantly take off during a session.
The Bad:
As I started progressing more with bouldering, I needed a slightly more aggressive shoe that would help with toe hooks, heel hooks, and other types of footwork that can be intensive while bouldering. While the neutral design of these shoes is great for all day comfort, I eventually needed something that provided a little more performance.
The Bottom Line:
For anyone that is looking for their first pair of climbing shoes, I would point them in this direction every time. They are a shoe that provides you with all of the tools you need to improve your climbing, and they aren't going to smash your feet while doing it. Depending on how much you climb, these shoes could last you years as well, preventing you from having to keep investing more money and allowing you to keep climbing.