Gear Review: Metolius Ultralight Master Cam
Value Rating: 10
Durability Rating: 8
Overall Rating: 8
Location of Test: Smith Rock State Park
Product Name: Ultralight Master Cam
Product Brand: Metolius
Best Use: Trad climbing, alpine climbing
Sizes: #00-8
The Full Review:
Over the last few years I’ve taken Metolius Master Cams all over the Pacific Northwest. Climbing up and down the Willamette Valley, the Columbia Gorge, Smith Rock, and the North Cascades they have performed extremely well. Most recently, I invested in two of the new Ultralight Master Cam in sizes #5 and #3 and took them to Smith Rock State Park near the birthplace of Metolius to see how they would perform.
We ended up climbing several routes in the Marsupials and a couple on the Red Wall the next day. As expected, the Ultralights performed just as well as the older Master Cams had. The action is smooth and the flexibility of the stem allowed me to place with more confidence in the jagged and meandering cracks in the Marps. Grooves are also cut into the face of the cam that are designed to seat well into softer rock, which is all too common here in Oregon. Overall, the cam has no real downsides in terms of ease of use compared to the other top brands producing a similar product.
Most importantly though, is the technical information…
First off, the weight of the cam is extremely important (as it is ultralight). Comparing my #5 Metolius Ultralight to the equivalent Black Diamond .75 Ultralight Camalot the Metolius weighs in at 85 grams compared to the BD cam coming in at 89 grams. Metolius achieved this by removing the thumb loop and using only 11mm slings, replacing trigger wires with nylon, and using a single-stem system.
Where this cam is outperformed by other similar products I would say is its long-term durability. The use of slings instead of loops means that one should be especially vigilant to watch for any damage. Where with a TCU or a Camalot if the slings become damaged the cam is still usable where the Ultralight Master Cam would be rendered useless. Additionally, the nylon trigger lines could become cut easier that of a steal wire, but should be noted that in the two years that I have been climbing with Master Cams this has never happened with me (nor is there any evidence of damage). It should be noted though that this damage would not “total” the cam, as Metolius, for a small fee, will repair and replace slings and other components if damaged.
I see this cam fitting nicely into an alpine rack, where I want something light and out of the way, and that I can easily place while wearing gloves. This also would be a perfect cam for any new trad climbers. Coming in between $59.95-$64.95 and with the addition of the range finding system that indicates how well the cam is placed for the first-time leader this adds a level of confidence to the placement that could be key to a successful and safe climb.
The Good
Extremely lightweight, easy to use, affordable, Sling loop useful for alpine climbing where gloves would not fit into standard loops (TCUs, Camalots), rangefinder markings ideal for new trad climbers
The Bad:
Single-stem system increases possibility of walking out of placement if the sling is damaged cam becomes useless
Where this cam is outperformed by other similar products I would say is its long-term durability. The use of slings instead of loops means that one should be especially vigilant to watch for any damage. Where with a TCU or a Camalot if the slings become damaged the cam is still usable where the Ultralight Master Cam would be rendered useless. Additionally, the nylon trigger lines could become cut easier that of a steal wire, but should be noted that in the two years that I have been climbing with Master Cams this has never happened with me (nor is there any evidence of damage). It should be noted though that this damage would not “total” the cam, as Metolius, for a small fee, will repair and replace slings and other components if damaged.
I see this cam fitting nicely into an alpine rack, where I want something light and out of the way, and that I can easily place while wearing gloves. This also would be a perfect cam for any new trad climbers. Coming in between $59.95-$64.95 and with the addition of the range finding system that indicates how well the cam is placed for the first-time leader this adds a level of confidence to the placement that could be key to a successful and safe climb.
The Good
Extremely lightweight, easy to use, affordable, Sling loop useful for alpine climbing where gloves would not fit into standard loops (TCUs, Camalots), rangefinder markings ideal for new trad climbers
The Bad:
Single-stem system increases possibility of walking out of placement if the sling is damaged cam becomes useless