Gear Review: Mammut Revelation Dry 9.2 Climbing Rope
Value Rating: 7
Durability Rating: 8
Overall Rating: 8
Location of Test: Squamish B.C. to Smith Rock and a few spots in between
Duration of Test: 9 months
Product Name: Revelation Dry 9.2
Product Brand: Mammut
Best Use: Fast and light climbing
Sizes: 40, 60 and 70 meters. Similar models available 9.5 and 9.8 mm diameters
The Full Review:
The Mammut Revelation Dry 9.2 is thin and light to the extreme. It’s nimble when clipping or tying in, it’s smooth through the system, and it’s light on the approach. You won’t even notice it’s drag as you move through the sequence on the most physically demanding routes you face, or on those long alpine adventures.
The Revelation 9.2 weighs just 57 grams per meter, or well under 9 lbs coiled on your back: an amazingly low weight for what you’re getting. The rope functions beautifully on long routes or short, bouldery projects, and with a UIAA falls count of 7-8, durability from standard use isn’t a concern.
The Revelation series of ropes are all rated as “single” ropes - the most common type of rope. All standard climbing ropes are built with a core; the main structure that gives strength and stretch to protect the climber, and a sheath; the visible part of the rope which protects the core. Among single ropes, the cores are largely similar, and the sheaths are made thicker or thinner to increase longevity or save weight. There’s more to the story of rope construction than this, but let it suffice to say that thinner ropes are just as safe, but tend to wear down sooner under use and - more specifically - abuse.
What does this mean for you? If you’re buying a 9.2, it’ll be light to carry and easy to use, but you should be mindful of getting it dirty and exposing it to rope drag. Dirt and grit can work their way through the thin sheath and into the core, wearing it down and decreasing the rope’s ability to absorb the force of your next whipper. If you want to run your rope across low-angle routes on top rope and pile it up in the dirt without a tarp underneath, you should probably be looking at ropes in the 10mm range or larger. If you want to finalize that brutal sport project, or sacrifice longevity to save weight on long multi-pitch routes, grab that 9.2mm!
The dry treatment on this rope is a nod to its surprising longevity and its value for alpine routes. Dry treatment on the sheath keeps mud, grime, and light water exposure off the rope and can also help protect against abrasions. For many climbers, this is enough, and lots of ropes have only the sheath treated to be water repellant. However, Revelation Dry ropes are also treated in their core so that even under heavy exposure the core doesn’t soak up water and rope remains usable: an essential feature for crossing glaciers on long approaches or bailing in a rainstorm.
There are a few other considerations with this rope worth mentioning. The first one I learned the scary way: be wary of thin ropes in certain belay devices. I attempted a simul-rap using one strand of this 9.2mm rope through a belay plate and didn’t have nearly enough friction. Also, keep an eye on the mid-point markings, they fade with time and look almost identical to the shadows that the rope leaves on itself when coiled.
Lastly, Mammut ropes come “lap-coiled” and don’t need to be back coiled in the traditional way. This does not mean that they can’t be tangle-prone out of the gate, and I recommend being prepared for some issues the first time you use it: a few rappels with a backup and extra patience usually does the trick! I also recommend flaking it a few times and running it through a belay device in “guide mode” while on the ground. This should push most of the kinks to the end of the rope.
I often recommend at least two ropes: A workhorse and a racehorse. Ropes like the Revelation Dry 9.2 dry are awesome for light and fast routes or shedding the last necessary grams on a gnarly sport project, but a +/- 9.8mm rope is a good balance between weight and durability, and it’s what I reach for most days. But when I do grab the Revelation, I know it’s going to be a fun one!
The Good
Light
Good for Alpine conditions
Smooth
The Bad:
Doesn't take abuse as well as bigger ropes
The midpoint marks fade
The Bottom Line:
For a light rope that holds up, look no further!
The Revelation series of ropes are all rated as “single” ropes - the most common type of rope. All standard climbing ropes are built with a core; the main structure that gives strength and stretch to protect the climber, and a sheath; the visible part of the rope which protects the core. Among single ropes, the cores are largely similar, and the sheaths are made thicker or thinner to increase longevity or save weight. There’s more to the story of rope construction than this, but let it suffice to say that thinner ropes are just as safe, but tend to wear down sooner under use and - more specifically - abuse.
What does this mean for you? If you’re buying a 9.2, it’ll be light to carry and easy to use, but you should be mindful of getting it dirty and exposing it to rope drag. Dirt and grit can work their way through the thin sheath and into the core, wearing it down and decreasing the rope’s ability to absorb the force of your next whipper. If you want to run your rope across low-angle routes on top rope and pile it up in the dirt without a tarp underneath, you should probably be looking at ropes in the 10mm range or larger. If you want to finalize that brutal sport project, or sacrifice longevity to save weight on long multi-pitch routes, grab that 9.2mm!
The dry treatment on this rope is a nod to its surprising longevity and its value for alpine routes. Dry treatment on the sheath keeps mud, grime, and light water exposure off the rope and can also help protect against abrasions. For many climbers, this is enough, and lots of ropes have only the sheath treated to be water repellant. However, Revelation Dry ropes are also treated in their core so that even under heavy exposure the core doesn’t soak up water and rope remains usable: an essential feature for crossing glaciers on long approaches or bailing in a rainstorm.
There are a few other considerations with this rope worth mentioning. The first one I learned the scary way: be wary of thin ropes in certain belay devices. I attempted a simul-rap using one strand of this 9.2mm rope through a belay plate and didn’t have nearly enough friction. Also, keep an eye on the mid-point markings, they fade with time and look almost identical to the shadows that the rope leaves on itself when coiled.
Lastly, Mammut ropes come “lap-coiled” and don’t need to be back coiled in the traditional way. This does not mean that they can’t be tangle-prone out of the gate, and I recommend being prepared for some issues the first time you use it: a few rappels with a backup and extra patience usually does the trick! I also recommend flaking it a few times and running it through a belay device in “guide mode” while on the ground. This should push most of the kinks to the end of the rope.
I often recommend at least two ropes: A workhorse and a racehorse. Ropes like the Revelation Dry 9.2 dry are awesome for light and fast routes or shedding the last necessary grams on a gnarly sport project, but a +/- 9.8mm rope is a good balance between weight and durability, and it’s what I reach for most days. But when I do grab the Revelation, I know it’s going to be a fun one!
The Good
Light
Good for Alpine conditions
Smooth
The Bad:
Doesn't take abuse as well as bigger ropes
The midpoint marks fade
The Bottom Line:
For a light rope that holds up, look no further!