Gear Review: Evolv Shaman Climbing Shoes
Value Rating: 9
Durability Rating: 7
Overall Rating: 8
Product Name: Shaman
Product Brand: Evolv
Best Use: Bouldering
Profile: Downturned asymmetry with "Knuckle Box"
Upper: Synthetic (Synthratek VX upper)
Lining: Unlined
Midsole: 1.0 mm half-length "Love Bump" midsole
Sole: 4.2 mm TRAX® high friction rubber, two-piece outsole
Rand: VTR rand (thicker front toe area)
Weight: 9.5 oz (½ pair size 9)
Sizes: 4 - 13.5 US men's (including half sizes)
SHOP CLIMBING SHOES
The Full Review
The Evolv Shamans were the first pair of aggressive climbing shoes I purchased. My first pair of climbing shoes were the Scarpa Origins which were great for learning fundamentals and the ability to keep them on my feet during long sessions, but as the routes I was climbing got more difficult, I needed a shoe that offered a little more performance.
These shoes definitely fit the bill when it comes to performance. The aggressive nature of this shoe puts your toes in a really good position, and the knuckle box allows for enough room to give your foot a little added comfort compared to some other similar models. The love bump also does a great job of getting rid of some of the dead space under the toes, and really helps with some of the harder toe hooks that are required on some bouldering routes. My original fear with buying such an aggressive shoe was that I would continually have to take them off and put them back on after only a few climbs, but honestly I was able to keep them on my feet for up to an hour of climbing before I had to give my feet a break. The three velcro straps also really help with being able to make slight adjustments of pressure on your foot, adding to comfort and allowing you to really cinch them down on different parts of the foot when needed. Also when you do have to take them off and put them back on, it is a quick and easy process which is definitely a plus.
My original fear with buying such an aggressive shoe was that I would continually have to take them off and put them back on after only a few climbs, but honestly, I was able to keep them on my feet for up to an hour of climbing before I had to give my feet a break. The three velcro straps also really help with being able to make slight adjustments of pressure on your foot, adding to comfort and allowing you to really cinch them down on different parts of the foot when needed. Also when you do have to take them off and put them back on, it is a quick and easy process which is definitely a plus.
The Good:
These shoes really do give you the confidence in your footwork when you are working on problems that require very technical precision. If I needed to place my toe in a very exact position on a hold, the sensitivity of these shoes really allowed me to get it right. Also with the shape of the shoes getting my toes in a really strong position, I had the confidence to push off for that next hold and know that my foot wasn't going to cut away. Also compared to other aggressive shoes, this shoe was really comfortable! After a couple of weeks of breaking them in, I could keep them on for long periods which is nice when you are trying to work on a problem.
The Bad:
My only issue that I had with this shoe is the durability. I had these shoes for only a few months when I started to notice that the material under the toe rand was peeking through. I'm not going to say that my climbing style didn't have anything to do with this, but compared to other shoes I've had, the rubber in this known high-wear area really didn't seem to stand up over time.
The Bottom Line:
Overall I really did like this shoe. For my first pair of aggressive climbing shoes, the price tag didn't hurt as much as some of the other ones that are on the market that offer similar performance. Also over time, I began to realize that this shoe may be better for people with a wider foot, which I do not have which caused me some issues on some heel hooks. Even though this shoe may not have been the exact right shoe for me, I would still suggest it to anyone looking to get an aggressive shoe.
These shoes definitely fit the bill when it comes to performance. The aggressive nature of this shoe puts your toes in a really good position, and the knuckle box allows for enough room to give your foot a little added comfort compared to some other similar models. The love bump also does a great job of getting rid of some of the dead space under the toes, and really helps with some of the harder toe hooks that are required on some bouldering routes. My original fear with buying such an aggressive shoe was that I would continually have to take them off and put them back on after only a few climbs, but honestly I was able to keep them on my feet for up to an hour of climbing before I had to give my feet a break. The three velcro straps also really help with being able to make slight adjustments of pressure on your foot, adding to comfort and allowing you to really cinch them down on different parts of the foot when needed. Also when you do have to take them off and put them back on, it is a quick and easy process which is definitely a plus.
My original fear with buying such an aggressive shoe was that I would continually have to take them off and put them back on after only a few climbs, but honestly, I was able to keep them on my feet for up to an hour of climbing before I had to give my feet a break. The three velcro straps also really help with being able to make slight adjustments of pressure on your foot, adding to comfort and allowing you to really cinch them down on different parts of the foot when needed. Also when you do have to take them off and put them back on, it is a quick and easy process which is definitely a plus.
The Good:
These shoes really do give you the confidence in your footwork when you are working on problems that require very technical precision. If I needed to place my toe in a very exact position on a hold, the sensitivity of these shoes really allowed me to get it right. Also with the shape of the shoes getting my toes in a really strong position, I had the confidence to push off for that next hold and know that my foot wasn't going to cut away. Also compared to other aggressive shoes, this shoe was really comfortable! After a couple of weeks of breaking them in, I could keep them on for long periods which is nice when you are trying to work on a problem.
The Bad:
My only issue that I had with this shoe is the durability. I had these shoes for only a few months when I started to notice that the material under the toe rand was peeking through. I'm not going to say that my climbing style didn't have anything to do with this, but compared to other shoes I've had, the rubber in this known high-wear area really didn't seem to stand up over time.
The Bottom Line:
Overall I really did like this shoe. For my first pair of aggressive climbing shoes, the price tag didn't hurt as much as some of the other ones that are on the market that offer similar performance. Also over time, I began to realize that this shoe may be better for people with a wider foot, which I do not have which caused me some issues on some heel hooks. Even though this shoe may not have been the exact right shoe for me, I would still suggest it to anyone looking to get an aggressive shoe.