Gear Review: Edelrid HMS Magnum Screw FG Carabiner
Value Rating: 8
Durability Rating: 10
Overall Rating: 9
Location of Test: Indoors & Outdoors (Broughton Bluff, Ozone, French's Dome)
Duration of Test: 4 months
Product Name: HMS Magnum Screw FG Carabiner
Product Brand: Edelrid
Best Use: Belaying
The Full Review:
I've searched high and low for a stellar belay biner and I think I've hit the jackpot. I've always found it frustrating when my belay carabiner shifts or turns when in use, resulting in it bearing weight on the side (aka cross loading). Not only is it a nuisance but also less safe, as the side is significantly lower rated than the length of the carabiner. Therefore, I was looking for a carabiner with some component that kept it in place and prevented cross loading, like the HMS Magnum Screw FG Carabiner. Unlike other carabiners of this category, the component that keeps the biner in position is independent of the main gate, so if you forget to chuck it in the right place on your first go you won’t have to unscrew the whole carabiner to adjust it. It also doesn't take up much room, or like other carabiners I've had, making it harder to take up or give out slack.
In addition to its well-designed cross loading prevention functionality, the screw gate is wicked smooth and locks or unlocks quickly and easily. Add rad vibrant colors and you've got yourself a grade A carabiner. Throughout its use, I've also been pleasantly surprised at how little this biner has gotten scratched up, but we'll see how it fairs after more use. One thing I found was quite interesting was that when a friend used my gri gri to belay, she really disliked the extra gate on this carabiner and opted to use her own instead. I suppose it speaks to how different preferences for gear can be, I love this biner but my friend found it a nuisance. To each their own.
The Good
The raddest cross loading prevention feature: the wire gate closure. The wire gate closure, though not safety rated, is well designed and it would take some serious, intentional force to displace it. Nice and big with a smooth lock.
The Bad:
Compared to other HMS biners, including those with a stabilizing feature as this one has, it's on the heavier side. If you're a die-hard for auto lock biners, on a major budget, or trying to rock an ultralight rack, this is unlikely to be the best 'biner for you.
The Bottom Line:
A darn good belay carabiner, well fitted with an extra wire gate closure that keeps it in the right position. But, if you're super tight on cash or trying to go ultralight, this may not be your buy.
The Full Review:
I've searched high and low for a stellar belay biner and I think I've hit the jackpot. I've always found it frustrating when my belay carabiner shifts or turns when in use, resulting in it bearing weight on the side (aka cross loading). Not only is it a nuisance but also less safe, as the side is significantly lower rated than the length of the carabiner. Therefore, I was looking for a carabiner with some component that kept it in place and prevented cross loading, like the HMS Magnum Screw FG Carabiner. Unlike other carabiners of this category, the component that keeps the biner in position is independent of the main gate, so if you forget to chuck it in the right place on your first go you won’t have to unscrew the whole carabiner to adjust it. It also doesn't take up much room, or like other carabiners I've had, making it harder to take up or give out slack.
In addition to its well-designed cross loading prevention functionality, the screw gate is wicked smooth and locks or unlocks quickly and easily. Add rad vibrant colors and you've got yourself a grade A carabiner. Throughout its use, I've also been pleasantly surprised at how little this biner has gotten scratched up, but we'll see how it fairs after more use. One thing I found was quite interesting was that when a friend used my gri gri to belay, she really disliked the extra gate on this carabiner and opted to use her own instead. I suppose it speaks to how different preferences for gear can be, I love this biner but my friend found it a nuisance. To each their own.
The Good
The raddest cross loading prevention feature: the wire gate closure. The wire gate closure, though not safety rated, is well designed and it would take some serious, intentional force to displace it. Nice and big with a smooth lock.
The Bad:
Compared to other HMS biners, including those with a stabilizing feature as this one has, it's on the heavier side. If you're a die-hard for auto lock biners, on a major budget, or trying to rock an ultralight rack, this is unlikely to be the best 'biner for you.
The Bottom Line:
A darn good belay carabiner, well fitted with an extra wire gate closure that keeps it in the right position. But, if you're super tight on cash or trying to go ultralight, this may not be your buy.